Jonathan’s Letter

When is the harvest? Please wait for me! Those were my words when I called Giovanni and Sparta in Puglia this August.When were they going to begin clipping their grapes? It was me, their bagnino! (literal translation: little bath boy). I had worked setting up umbrellas and lounge chairs at their beach establishment, Il Gabbiano in the Gargano, over twenty years ago when Ginny, Sarah and I began to spend summers in Puglia. Since then I have been treated like a member of the family and have always held their land in the hills above the sea, which is surrounded by olive and fruit trees, birds in concert, and spectacular views of the water featuring both the sunrise and sunset, in a place close to my heart. You can still see someone riding a donkey or a young boy walking with his goats. In our early years there, one of my favorite rituals was to search for the perfect clump of grapes first thing in the morning. I was unaware that these grapes were meant for wine, as I had never been present for the harvest. Though Sparta saw me every day with a clump in my hand, she never told me not to eat them.

I arrived in late September. I used to drive straight through from Rome to Rodi, being always anxious to get there. By the time I was near Pescara and the Adriatic, I had to stop at every Autogrill for a double espresso. This time I stopped nearby for a night at Le Campestre in Castel Di Sasso, as driving the five hours after the overseas flight is not a great idea anymore! So with some rest, I made my way to my beloved Rodi.

I had never participated in a harvest or witnessed the actual production of wine. To do so with Giovanni and Sparta, now 83 and 81 years of age, was very special.

Giovanni and Sparta

The grapes were collected over a period of three days. I cannot tell you the varietal. Though I remember having heard stories about Giovanni stomping grapes with his feet, these were crushed with a small grinder.

Giovanni with grapes and hand masher

The crushed grapes and their vines were left in large, open vats to rest for two days. The fermentation process begins quickly.

Initial Fermentation

The juice rises in temperature, and you can see tiny bubbles and taste the beginnings of a lambrusco. The hard work followed. Using a wood barrel with a hand crank, the wine-to-be is pressed.

Giovanni with hand crank for pressing

Free of skins and vines, it is left a few more days in the open vats before final filtration and bottling.

Giovanni (click image for video)

Jon with Giovanni and Sparta

It was a good production for Giovanni and Sparta, 350 liters in all. It felt good to work alongside Giovanni, to be of assistance, and to pretend I was a contadino. The daily rhythm was wonderful. Sadly, my time in Rodi was too short, and leaving is never easy. Before leaving, Giovanni allowed me to interview him on film. I was amazed at how verbal he was, as he is normally a man of few words. Having time with the rest of the family and their friends down on the beach was also special. Though they always insisted that I have another meal with them (both lunch and dinner), after having just finished with Giovanni and Sparta up at “the Castello”, it was ok to just have a glass of wine or two, some fruit and a piece of the local cacciocavallo cheese.

Before returning to Caiazzo and Castel Di Sasso, I stopped in Solopaca. Years ago I was introduced to a slightly chilled, sparkling red from this area. I thought it would be fun to stop by the local cantina and have a glass. While it would be a perfect wine in summer at Spacca, as would a Gragnano and the Asprinio D’Aversa , unfortunately these wines do not travel well.

I arrived in Caiazzo just before dinner on a Saturday evening.

Pizzeria Pepe

It was great to be in my whites and back in the kitchen with Franco Pepe.It promised to be a busy night and was. The rest of my stay in Italy was nonstop. It all evolved around pizza and wine. The evenings were usually at Antica Osteria Pizzeria Pepe. During the day, I was either picking grapes or going into Naples. I attended a special luncheon at Pizzeria Salvo for many local well-known pizza makers alongside several important journalists, and was thrilled to meet Professore Antonio Mattozzi, author of a celebrated book chronicling Neapolitan pizzerias and pizza makers of the 18^th and 19^th centuries.

Jon with Franco Pepe and Professore Mattozzi

The Mattozzis are considered a dynasty among Neapolitan pizza making families. Their first pizzeria dates back to 1852. Sitting next to a producer of the television program Linea Verde was also a thrill. Linea Verde celebrates all things artisanal, agricultural and gastronomic in Italy. I was quite impressed with Pizzeria Salvo (www.pizzeriasalvo.it). Like Antica Osteria Pizzeria Pepe, Pizzeria Salvo is also a third generation pizzeria. Their impasto (pizza dough) involves a long natural levitazione (rise) at ambient room temperature.

Impasto di Franco Pepe

Marinara with alici at Pizzeria Salvo

Filetti at Pizzeria Salvo

The dough requires gentle hands resulting in pizza that is “soffici, leggere, morbidisseme e di sappore intenso.” I aspire to make pizza of this same quality; to be like Franco Pepe, Antonio Starita and Roberto Caporuscio.

Now I must tell you about two fabulous pizzas. If you have read this blog before you will remember that I studied with Enzo Coccia at la Noticia in 2004. Franco and I went there one day when a few of the managers of Joe Fugere’s Sette Bello (Seattle, Washington) were in Naples for a visit. Enzo presented a pie made with four types of tomato. With each type of tomato, there was a corresponding cheese. Four diverse tastes, four diverse aromas. A true capo lavoro, a Neapolitan masterpiece celebrating local product!

Quattro pomodoro

The other pie was Franco Pepe’s creation and features sugna (lard), black pepper, oregano, basil, fresh figs and the artisanal cheese conciato romano. It was presented to Don Alfonso and his guests at his world famous, three star Michelin Ristorante Don Alfonso in Sant’ Agata sui due Golfi along the Amalfi coast. Conciato Romano is one of Italy’s oldest cheeses, dating back 2600 years. Made from sheep’s milk, it can be aged up to two years. The Lombardi family of Le Campestre in Castel di Sasso is its producer.

Franco Pepe (click image for video)

Conciato Romano (click image for video)

I participated in two more harvests before returning home. The first was at Le Campestre.

Le Campestre

The grape picked was the ancient, indigenous varietal Pallegrello. The other ancient, indigenous varietal found on their land is Casavecchia. We were an intimate group in the fields but a large one at the table.

Harvest at Le Campestre

A tavola at Le Campestre

The weather was beautiful, and the Italian conversation and laughter that followed were music to my ears. I took the work seriously and tried my best to keep pace with the others. As with the Albano family (Giovanni and Sparta), it felt really good to be included by the Lombardis.

I was introduced to Paola Riccio of the Alepa winery (www.alepa.it) by Franco Pepe. Alepa is situated just outside of Caiazzo. The variety and quality of food produced in this area is amazing: Olives, wine, pears, apples, chestnuts, mozzarella di bufala, conciato romano, salumi and prosciutto from the flavorful Maiale Nero Casertano (black pig of Caserta). No wonder this region of Caserta was once considered the breadbasket of the Roman legions.

Preparing nets for the olive harvest to follow at Le Campestre

Frantoio

Salumi alla Antica Osteria Pizzeria Pepe

These producers are a proud lot. I was warmly greeted by Paola and invited to share in her harvest the following day.

Harvest at Alepa Winery

Paola is quite passionate about her wine and continuing the tradition begun by her father in 1986. As with Le Campestre, the ancient varietal Pallegrello can be found on her land. Following the grape’s resurgence after it was almost extinct, Paola planted vines at the winery. Along with a falanghina/greco blend and an aglianico/cabernet sauvignon blend, I think Paola is most proud of her Maria Carolina. This particular wine pays homage to Maria Carolina, wife of Fedinando lV of Borbone, King of the Two Sicilies. This is, according to Paola, a 100% white pallegrello wine that has been refined first in 500 liter oak barrels, followed by six months in bottles. It is a complicated affair, demanding heartfelt dedication and knowledge.

Paola Ricco (click image for video)

Though each vendemmia is unique in its own right, they share the same respect for the grape, its history and its harvested potential.

I am back home and enjoying the daily rhythm of the pizzeria, along with various community events. I cooked for Zucchero and his band when they performed recently in Chicago, and heard them the next week in New York where I also spent time with Roberto Caporuscio of Keste.

Jon with Zucchero

Roberto will be opening a new pizzeria on West 55^th street in Manhattan with Antonio Starita of Napoli. I trust that “Don Antonio” will quickly be considered one of the greatest pizzerias in America!

Should you be in New York, go to Emilio Ballato’s on Houston Street. Their linguine con vongole (clams) is so out of this world, I ate it twice in three days. On my second visit I began with trippa con marinara, and then the vongole. The tripe antipasto was nostalgic for me. My usual first stop in Florence has always been an early visit (6 A.M.) to the mercato centrale for a panino with trippa con salsa verde and a short glass of red wine. Emilio is from Sarno, the heart of the San Marzano region east of Naples. Here is an incredible New York Times review of the restaurant, 10/25/11.

I apologize for the long letter, kind of. In part as a result of this trip, in the near future, we will present a new reserve wine list showcasing wines that are true expressions of a commitment to history, territory and culture. They are the result of the passion of a farmer/winemaker dedicated to resurrecting nearly extinct grape varietals and bringing to the world expressions of the terroir and culture of 1000 years ago. Some of these wines have reputations that are mythical and legendary. I had the good fortune to enjoy these wines on my travels to Italy, and I am committed to searching for and offering them to my customers.

Cin cin!

Jonathan

The Italian holiday Ferragosto, celebrated on the 15th of August, marks the middle of summer. It has layered meanings: in ancient times it was a celebration of the end of the agricultural season, accumulating religious and political meanings, but always included feasting. Today it is more focused on the summer holiday time, but eating and a spirit of festival continues as many small and large Italian towns have processions, fairs and fireworks.

For Spacca Napoli Ferragosto also signals that summer is moving along.

Jonathan with friends

Despite excessive heat and torrential downpours we have been enjoying the outdoor patio and al fresco dining. Squash blossoms and soft shell crabs were summer highlights.  The hot weather gave us inspiration for lighter pies.  The Donna Regina is a white pie with mozzarella, gamberetti (shrimp), salt, crushed black pepper, olio agrumato (lemon infused oil), and fresh basil.  My good friend, Domenico Mazzella, is the inspiration behind this pie.  He can talk for hours about alici (fresh anchovies), sardines, pulpo (octopus) and other frutti di mare that are abundant along the coast and nearby islands of Napoli.

Domenico Mazzella

Watch a video of Domenico at Marina di Camerota.

Don Boccalone is another pie on our board this summer, done with Mozzarella, white anchovies, gaeta olives, garlic, and oregano.  This pie came to me while hosting longtime friends, the Boccalones, one Sunday afternoon at the agriturismo, Le Campestre, in the region of Caserta.

Nicola Boccalone, former sindaco (mayor) of Benevento, is a “buon gustaio” when it comes to food and wine.  I have fond memories of meals shared with Nicola, his wife Angelica Razzano of Sant’ Agata di Goti, and her parents Immacolata and Giovanni.  Eating Immacolata’s sugo al pomodoro, foraging for wild asparagus with Giovanni, enjoying Nicola’s vermicelli with the tiniest and sweetest clams and his enthusiasm for the local red wine Solopaca, served slightly chilled and effervescent–these memories make me smile.  We know three generations of this family, dating back to our first years in the Gargano.

Other summer pizza favorite pizzas have been Tre Pomodori, Roberto Caporuscio’s Prosciutto and Black Figs, and a special surprise La Donatella with fresh bufala ciliegine. We added two antipasti: Pulpo al Piscopo inspired by and named for Ed Piscopo and his mother, Concetta, made with octopus, black olives, and artichokes; and Farro di Francesco uses an ancient variety of wheat berries, shrimp, yellow peppers, and borlotti beans. The farro dish resulted from my researching recipes and asking Francesco Barba, a new member of our kitchen staff, for his ideas. These kinds of collaborations as well as learning about our friends’ favorite dishes and being able to add them to our menu to share with others is a favorite part of our work.

Tre Pomodori

La Donatella

Before we close for our annual Labor Day “pause”, come in for one of these new treats and to bask outside in summer’s sweet time. I’ll end with a quote from Shakespeare’s Midsummer Night’s Dream, the inspiration for this month’s post: it seems to speak to feeling of this lovely time of year…

from Oberon:

Fetch me that flower;
the herb I shew’d thee once:
The juice of it on sleeping eye-lids laid
Will make or man or woman madly dote
Upon the next live creature that it sees. (2.1.8)

Che bella la prima vera in Italia.  I began this letter sitting on the terrace of Le Campestre, one of the most beautiful and tranquil locations I have experienced in Italy. Le Campestre, an agriturismo , is just outside of Castel di Sasso, an ancient borgo, in the region of Caserta. It is owned and operated by the Lombardi family.  There are four generations to this family, all in gamba (on their leg); the youngest, 18 months, the oldest, 88 years.  I have written of Le Campestre in the past and will probably do so in the future. I am already thinking of when I can return.

Le Campestre

Castel di Sasso

Le Campestre - the fourth generation

NAPLES, ROUND ONE
I had begun this trip in Naples where I planned to spend time in the city and at some of my favorite pizzerias before and after heading to Caiazzo.  Not only was I able to spend time with Adolfo Marletta of La Spaghettata and Antonio Starita in Materdei, two of the greatest pizza makers in Naples, I went south to Palinuro in the Cilento with my friend Domenico Mazzini of the B&B Donna Regina.

Donna Regina B & B

Upon arriving I had the good fortune to dine at the La Stanza Del Gusto with Mario Raffone, Domenico’s uncle and one of the last master lithographers in Naples. The Stanza Del Gusto (www.lastanzadelgusto.com) is quite interesting.  Located by the Piazza Bellini, its owner Mario Avallone has made it his life’s work to honor and showcase “slow food.”  It truly stands by itself.  It was a wonderful way to begin, sitting down with the two Marios and soaking up their thoughts on honey, wine, cheese, tomatoes, vinegar, prosciutto, mortadella, oils and more. Starting this way set the tone for the dialogue that transpired each and every day.  Every artisan, whatever their product, has their own method and tradition.  And while each has their own take on what is right, what they have in common is their love for what they do, and passing their knowledge from one generation to the next.

An evening of pizza with Domenico at Di Napoli in Fuorigrotta was the prelude for Caiazzo and my extended visit with the Pepe brothers.  Situated away from the centro storico (historic center) of Naples, Pizzeria di Napoli is not as well traveled by tourists as Da Michele, Di Matteo,  Trianon, and other well-known local destinations.  But since 1953, this family-run pizzeria has had a serious following. If you are a pizza lover appreciative of its finer attributes, this pizzeria is not to be missed. Light and airy, a touch of resistance with the first bite, and top ingredients: I was impressed.

And so well primed, I was on my way toward Caiazzo.  Caiazzo is a good forty minutes drive from Napoli.  A small town of 5000, it is quite beautiful.  Its history is long.  Once in the hands of the Romans (306 B.C.), the Lombards, Arogonese, and the Kingdom of Naples have all been there.  Besides pizza, there is wine, olive oil, and mozzarella.  Over the course of my stay in Caiazzo, I learned about the local indigenous grapes, Casavecchia and Pallagrello,  and sampled the local olive oil.

Caiazzo

Le Campestre is near Caiazzo and there I again enjoyed the ancient conciata romana cheese and prosciutto nero that is lovingly produced by Liliana and her family.  An afternoon walk with Liliana to look for wild asparagus, flowers, herbs and other greens to eat was a special treat.  I was treated like family and felt truly at home.  With open hearts, I was welcome in the kitchen. Recipes were shared.

Liliana's soup - ceci, fagioli, and castagne

The Mastroberardino Estate also treated me with kindness.  We have many of their wines on our list.  Through Dario Panino whom I had met in Chicago and who is a director with the Estate, I was picked up, given a tour of their operation, had a wine tasting of  the newest vintages, and visited with Dottore Antonio Mastroberardino  who is of the 9th generation. A wonderful lunch followed at their newly established Radici Resort. (www.radiciresort.com) Along with Casavechia and Palagrello from Terre del Principe, (www.terredelprincipe.com) we will be introducing Villa Dei Misteri from Mastroberardino which is made from a grape discovered and cultivated at Pompei. How ancient is that!

Mastroberardino

CAIAZZO

The core of what brought me to this region of Casserta was to work with Franco Pepe and his two brothers, Nino and Massimiliano, at their family’s Antica Osteria Pizzeria Pepe.  Franco and his brothers are part of the third generation of this greatly respected pizzeria. In 2011 Franco was among two other grande pizzaiuolo’s, Gino Sorbillo (www.academiapizzeria.com) and Enzo Coccia  my former teacher, of Pizzeria La Notizia in Vomero (www.enzococcia.it) who were asked to demonstrate their work to a group of internationally renowned chefs, food critics and personalities in Rome.

I met Franco in June 2010 when Ginny and I were on route to Le Campestre for a brief visit.  I wanted to show Ginny these two beautiful trees in nearby Caiazzo’s small piazza and by chance had just read about the pizzeria in The Food and Wine Lover’s Guide to Naples and Campania by Carla Capalbo while we were on our way to Caiazzo.  I was really excited by this discovery and decided I could not leave this town without having one of their pizzas or at least meeting the brothers. Our timing did not allow for eating, but we did get to meet Franco. After leaving Caiazzo Franco and I continued to correspond. A year later I was able to return to spend a week in residence with him.

Franco makes the impasto (pizza dough) by hand. I had the opportunity to be witness to this tradition in motion. Each day is unique and requires serious thought as to the precise mix of flour, water, salt and lievito madre (mother yeast) that will be used.  I trust there are very few pizzerias in Italy and around the world that make the dough in the manner Franco does.  Though he is a member of the APN, he refers to his pizza as “pizza del nonno” (of the grandfather) as opposed to “Neapolitan”.

Impasto di Franco

Though there are so many facets to making a good pizza, the dough, to my mind the dough remains its uncompromising foundation.  My first two weeks of training with Enzo Coccia in 2004 required making dough by hand–no easy feat. Being with the fratelli Pepe (the Pepe brothers) was a chance to deepen my understanding.  It is amazing to think of the particular history that is the essence of this one small pizzeria in the tiny town of Caiazzo.  The love and reverence for their father and grandfather, who are of the first and second generations of Antica Osteria Pizzeria Pepe, cannot be described; it can only be felt.

To be part of their rhythm, to have dialogue and share ideas was wonderful.  Pepe and his two brothers warmly welcomed me into their pizzeria. I believe my passion for La Pizza helped foster this.  Franco and I are similar, in that we share an excitement, a quest even, to do our best to make something wonderful that nourishes both body and soul and to share it with others. Pizza is primal for us, like mother’s milk.

Margherita - Franco Pepe

I watched and listened as Pepe made his dough by hand every morning.  We talked of the various flours, the gluten, sugars (simple and complex) and amino acids.  We talked of elasticity, dough memory, digestibility, fermentation, oils, tomatoes, cheese, salumi, everything!   We even went to presentations on flour (Petra) and visited Molino Caputo.  Afternoons were spent visiting other local artisans, having lunch with his family, and returning to the pizzeria for the evening’s work.  By the end of my stay, I felt I was no longer a passive participant; I was the part of their celebration of La Pizza, a member of the family, a fourth brother if you will.  It was with great sadness that I made my way back to Naples.

Molino Caputo

Franco Pepe and Jon

I Fratelli

NAPLES, ROUND TWO

And so returning, with videos in hand, I visited some of the locations where the previous year I had collaborated with Sky Dylan Robbins (www.skymedia.tv) as she made her documentary, Un’ Americana in Italia which is about the spirituality of food. It was fun and greatly satisfying to share the finished film with those who are in it.  You can see individual episodes of Sky’s documentary on the videos page of our website.

I have been running around this city since 2003, and my questions seem to have no end.  So even on this trip, I took more videos, and spent more time talking philosophy, being allowed access to kitchens and being invited to share in the staff meal.  Adolfo Marletta of La Spagetatta in Vomero was more than generous with his time.  Besides Franco Pepe, Adolfo and Antonio Starita were the two pizza makers I most wanted to spend time with; to watch hands, discuss flour and their methods of making dough.  Throughout my journey, there was reference to the changing nature of flour over a long time.  Today’s production often has more gluten, is stronger and more elastic.  Because of these changes the methods of extending dough by hand that Adolfo’s father did in the past, Adolofo and other pizzaiuoli must adapt in the present.

Roberto Caporuscio, Adolfo Marletta, Antonio Starita, Jon Goldsmith

Adolfo's Pizza

The only wish left on my plate in Naples was to spend a day with Antonio Starita in Martedei.  As with Pepe, the opportunity to be with Antonio is an honor.  He is considered one of the greatest pizza makers in Naples and has always been generous with his knowledge and time.  We began the day making the impasto together.  Though our methods are similar, I always learn from him.   As the lunch hour began, I moved over to the pizza bank and focused on the hand movements extending the dough and topping the pizzas.  It was a beautiful Saturday afternoon and there was great excitement on the street and in the pizzeria.  Easter Sunday was the following day.  Everyone was happy, the children were jumping up and down.  It was quite nice to hear one woman, child in hand, telling Antonio that as a young child she would often come to Starita with her nonna (grandmother).  The memories continue to be made.

CILENTO

To ease my transition back home, I ventured south to Palinuro and the Cilento with Domenico.  Making our way past Gragnano, the Amalfi Coast and the magical Greek ruins of Paestum. I was anxious to return to this land of wonder, believed to be where the sirens called out to Ulysses.

Waiting for Ulysses

I was in for a treat: natural beauty, good food and wine, visiting the newly opened and quite interesting Club Farine Med and once again venturing into the Cilento National Park. We woke up to Easter Sunday and had a wonderful afternoon meal overlooking the sea.  It was fun to sample the various casatiellos, each one different in its own way.  The evening was spent at the Club Farine Med. Using local biologico product, pizzas are closely tied to the areas from which the ingredients came.  How can one go wrong when using carciofini di pertosa (baby white articholes) or alici di menaica (fresh anchovies). Franco Fucciolo makes the pizza. Domenico’s’s cousin Nicholas Raffone is the owner. Only open since February, the dough is quite amazing.  Franco and I had met the previous year and of course, had bonded over pizza.   At most pizzerias, I am slow to jump in.  This time was different, I could not resist. Remembering a pie introduced to me by Roberto Caporuscio of Keste in New York, I made one with four mini calzones.  At four points of the pie, the cornicione is folded toward the middle with something stuffed inside.  The middle is left open with enough room to create another topping.  Very playful.

Club Farine Med

The day after Easter in Italy is a favorite of mine.  Pasquetta, “little easter,” is a day of celebration.  We drove into the Cilento, making our way to “Cono,” (www.dacono.it). Dacono is a very special agriturismo.  Situated near the medieval town Larito, it has a particular spirit and mystique. Goats abound and the setting is spectacular.

Dacono

We feasted with many other families.  There was traditional dance and song, the wine vero and sincero.  What a way to end the trip.  Well almost.   I could not leave Italy without returning once more to the fratelli Pepe in Caiazzo.  I showed up in my whites, ready for work.  It was a pleasant surprise and truly appreciated.  I was happy to see them and they me.  Late into the night, we worked.  With only a few hours before I needed to begin my journey home, we celebrated with a sparkling Greco, focaccia, and salumi.

I know this letter is long.  I apologize, but so much happens for me when I make these travels.  Food, wine and family bring us all together. Whether it is Turkey, Tunisia, the Gargano or the Cilento, I continue to experience the great willingness people have to share with those who express an interest to learn or just to appreciate.

Urfa, Turchia

Toujene, Tunisie

I guess you could say I have fallen in love all over again, with all things pizza.  And maybe with Franco Pepe.  Don’t tell Roberto.  My wife however, does know.

A presto,

Jonathan

Valentine’s Day, February 14th, we are now in our sixth year!  How can I say thank you other than to say thank you.  Our house is full, and we are all happy.  This past weekend we celebrated Sicilian antipasti and dolce with Fabrizia Lanza of Anna Tasca Lanza next up is an evening with Dario Pennino of Mastroberardino Wines.  Looking ahead are events at the French Market, Bacon Fest and my yearly trip to the Las Vegas Pizza Expo.

In April I go to Caiazzo in Campania to be with Francesco Pepe of Antica Osteria Pizzeria Pepe. This will be a very special time in my journey as a pizzaiuolo. I have written of Francesco on a few occasions and of his recent special evening highlighting the harmony of pizza and wine. In this vein I asked my good friend and colleague, Seth Allen, of Winebow to write more on the subject and have already shared his wisdom with many in the restaurant community — both in America and Italy. We have posted his words on our website. I cannot express enough the appreciation I have for Seth, and his fellow wine mates, Peter Steinhouse and Maria Megna. I always learn so much from them!

To all who have enjoyed our pizza, spirit and love, there is more to come. To my wife and daughter, I cannot thank you enough.

Jonathan

As the year comes to an end I am quite thankful. We have managed to stay afloat while we see such hardship all around us. Although I believe offering good food at a fair price sustains our establishment, as recognized by the Michelin Group’s Bib Gourmand award, fostering a sense of community among our staff, vendors and patrons is at the heart of what we do. We are all still excited whenever someone lets us know they enjoy returning to Spacca over and over again.

As always, we want to continue to develop as artisans. This year I will continue learning with Roberto Caporuscio of Keste Pizzeria in New York and with the great Antonio Starita in Napoli. I look forward to time with the Caputo family, the makers of our flour, when we are together at the International Pizza Expo in Las Vegas this spring. A most exciting opportunity will be going back to Caiazzo, near Casserta, to be with the owners of Antica Osteria Pizzeria Pepe. Passed down from father to son for nearly a century, this pizzeria employs age old methods that embody the essence of the slow food movement.

A true characterization of their work can be found in the simple words of my teacher, Enzo Coccia: “pizza isn’t just a food, it’s a way of being.” Sky Dylan Robbins’ closing comment in her documentary Pizza Napoletana also gives an idea of what they are about in Caiazzo: “It’s the passion, the soul, the love transmitted from the pizza makers’ hands into our hearts through these pizzas, which nourish not just our bodies, but also our souls.” In anticipation of my visit, I have begun to play with a particular calzone that is one of their house favorites — scarola (escarole) with gaeta olives, anchovies and capers.

What makes their calzone special, aside from their wonderful dough and masterful hand work, is their using fresh escarole that lovingly cooks down (steams) while in the oven.

My interest in expanding my understanding of pizza’s history, art form, and artisanal manner goes hand in hand with expanding and fine tuning our knowledge of wine and how to best pair it with pizza. Many would say that drinks with some “fizz”, including beer, sodas, or vino frizzante are either the appropriate or only choice when it comes to pizza; however many white and red wines are delicious options and have a rich tradition of being enjoyed together with pizza. Just recently the Osteria Antica Pizzeria Pepe in Caiazzo held a special event called Una Serata Particolare to discuss this subject. The goal of the evening was to investigate misunderstandings and dispel myths about pairing pizza with wine, and in the words of the organizers, “engage the five senses, passion, and memory” while doing so. That evening included tastings of wine from Pallagrello and Casavecchia.

Which leads me to the wines on our menu.

Our wines are primarily from the south of Italy: Campania, Basilicata, Puglia, and Sicily, and we have a few favorites from Abruzzo and Sardinia. All of our wines come from family owned vineyards that span several generations. Our producers can fairly claim uninterrupted years of traditional practices, bringing ancient varietals forward for our enjoyment. While today’s production methods are far more sophisticated than when homemade wines went from stomping to table, the essential qualities from those early days remain: personal attention to detail and regional specificity.

In this way what we offer is close in concept to being with an Italian family and sipping their homemade wine at their kitchen table, something I have enjoyed many times in Italy, especially in Rodi Garganico. Many thanks to Seth Allen, Peter Steinhouse, and Maia R. Megna of Winebow for sharing their knowledge and passion on these matters and helping us bring these special wines to you.

As our year comes to an end, once again, a big thank you to everyone. I am truly blessed to have work I love; it is a joy to share with others—always in collaboration. February 14th marks our 5th anniversary and in celebration, 5% of all proceeds for the month of February will be donated to The Night Ministry, specifically to go to their shelter for homeless teens in Chicago.

Greetings! A busy summer season flew by and we are already well into fall. I recently lunched with Alessandro Bellini of Viola Imports and three colleagues from Italy at Spiaggia Café, which started the new season on a good note. It’s amazing how excited five guys can get talking honey, balsamic, and cheese. Although it helps if you are the artisan or the importer, just about everyone Italian has something special to say about everything that is put on the table. These conversations can go on for hours, with new and great friendships often the result. There is something so primal, so close to home that is awakened when we reflect on what tastes good. We are easily reconnected with our past and with those we love, and so many memories come back to life. At Spacca we never tire of these food conversations; it is part of our culture here. We welcome your sharing memories — so come round for a conversation ‘a tavola’ — it’s all part of the fun.

We are working with new offerings that pair well with the cooler weather, including soups, antipasti, pizze, and dolce. “It tastes like fall,” said Chris, one of our wait staff, when sampling one of the new pizzas, our “Agricola” with roasted leeks, pancetta and burrata. The idea for this pizza came while sampling Amarone wines from Masi Agricola Winery near Verona. As pizza often becomes a topic of conversation when I am present, the U.S. director for this wine estate eagerly shared this favorite of his with me.

Another pizza forthcoming is the Neonata. Newborn ice fish blended with spicy peppers and oils are called neonata and come to me from Alessandro of Viola. I have been asking him about this product ever since returning from the Cilento coast last April. I had pizza with neonata at Europeo di Mattozzi in Napoli that same visit. To be honest, I do not remember if that particular pizza was more spice than fish, so I have decided to add seppioline, as an additional topping. Small cuttlefish (seppia) are sauteed in oil and garlic, blanched in white wine, then finished over the char broiler. First comes the neonata, then the seppia; mozzarella is the final touch. If you like spice and fish, you will like this one!

Another fish already on our table is Baccala or salt cod. Popular throughout the Mediterranean, I hope it will become popular here at Spacca Napoli. Baccala con Peperoni Arrostiti is a recipe from Arthur Schwartz’s Naples At Table. Salty with sweet, chewy with tender, is how Arthur describes this dish. What can go wrong with something so simple as cod, roasted peppers, parsley, garlic, good olive oil, bread crumbs and gaeta olives? Thank you, Arthur! As always, I thank all of you and am grateful for another season that we all can be together.

Grazie,
Jonathan

The phone call came, “Francesca’s getting married!” Delighted, we made plans and returned to Puglia and my beloved Rodi Garganico. Thank you Francesca, daughter of Nando and Anna, granddaughter of Sparta and Giovanni, longtime friend of our daughter Sarah.

Though our visit was short, it as fantastically fun. Have you ever heard anything about an Italian wedding? What they say is true!

It is a feast and celebration that goes long into the night, ending with fireworks. The reception was set in a beautiful valley of the Gargano near Pechici, with strolling grounds and stunning vistas. The antipasti and subsequent courses seemingly went on for miles! Fresh fish, prosciutto, salumi, cheeses, vini, pasta, carne, dolce, un po di musica, la bellazza. We had to walk between courses to keep up! It was a happy reunion with many old and dear friends to catch up with — and great fun to see the young people we had known since they were small children all together still, and on to their adult lives.

We stayed in Rodi where the birds up in the hills overlooking the sea never stopped singing, even at night. I love it in the country side, la campagnia, hanging out with Giovanni and Sparta, now well into their 80’s. Though Giovanni is now 85, he is still working the land.

The land there is blessed, producing olives, oranges, lemons, figs, peaches, apples, pomegranates, grapes, fiori. With sunrises, sunsets, the sound of the sea, what more could you want. A few homemade cannoli, lots of love, offers of young wine and fresh olive oil.

All too quickly Ginny and I were on our way to Le Campestre, an agriturismo with only a few rooms, in the Provincia di Casserta. Close to the village of Castel di Sasso, this place is breathtaking, with a long and rich food history and tradition. The proprietors of this wonderful spot, the Lombardis, are a lovely family, very much in tune with the earth and the tranquility of nature.

Everything that is put on the table comes from their own land. They are the makers of a particular sheep’s milk cheese, Conciato Romano, that dates back to the time of agro-pastoral tradition. Their efforts have been recognized and supported by Carlo Petrini, founder of the Slow Food movement. To wash down the Conciato Romano, the indigenous Casavecchia wine from their vineyard was the only choice needed!

Near Le Campestre is the town of Caiazzo. I had been there years ago and wanted to show Ginny its beautiful, intimate piazza that is shaded by two towering trees. In the town center there is a small pizzeria, Antica Osteria Pizzeria Pepe, that is run by a trio of brothers.

They are the third generation, the pizzeria having been established by their grandfather and then continued by their father. I learned of the pizzeria when reading through Carla Capalbo’s Food and Wine Guide to Naples and Campania. Though the brothers all have full time careers elsewhere, they were not willing to let go of the tradition that had been established by their father and grandfather. I had the good fortune of meeting one of the brothers, Franco. Though it was too early in the day to try one of their pizzas, you could feel the love and respect that Franco has for the pizza and his wish to honor his father and grandfather by not changing the techniques that he and his brothers learned as children. The dough is mixed by hand, not by machine. The blend of flours used for the dough varies according to the weather. They do not depend on a commercial bakers yeast, a lievito madre is their foundation. Come October, I hope to be in residence with them for a couple of weeks.

On to Rome where our last full day we saw a stunning exhibition of Caravaggio, the pictures remarkably fresh and still powerful. Though we have seen his work before in Italy, Ginny remarked on the poignant sense of self portraiture that emanated throughout each work, and the curatorial expertise in lighting the work from the same angle that the inner light of the paintings were painted from, creating maximum impact. What a genius. Though leaving Italy is always sad, I always look forward to our final stop prior to departure. Castel Gandolfo, just outside of Rome, is truly magical.

Situated high above a volcanic lake, this is where a succession of Popes have summered for hundreds and hundreds of years. We have a favorite ristorante, Bucci, and a lovely intimate hotel, recently remodeled, with a view of the lake, called Hotel Castel Gandolfo. It is a prefect ending every time, allowing us to ease out of Italy.

Jonathan

It was an amazing trip! Though jet lagged, I returned home from Italy at the end of April excited and inspired. After a brief stay in Rome, I headed right to Napoli. Before I even made it to my bed and breakfast, the Donna Regina, I was organizing for the film crew skymedia that was to arrive the following morning. While the days were long, in a short period of time, Sky, her crew and I visited and filmed four pizzerias, the Molino Caputo flour mill, a pasta factory in historic Gragnano, bufala mozzarella producers at Tenuta Seliano south of Salerno in Paestum, and three very different presentations of antipasti at various locations.

I’ll start with the antipasti. In the Cilento, the Baronessa Cecilia Bellelli Baratta prepared mozzarella in carrozza, zucchine a fiammifero and one of my favorites, panzerotti filled with escarole and pine nuts. This feast followed a lovely interview with her on the grounds of her agricultural tourism establishment about the history of bufala and an early morning visit to her caseificio where fresh bufala milk is formed daily into all types of mozzarella, ricotta and yogurt. By the way, the water buffalo are very sweet animals.

Zooming back to Napoli, our second round of antipasti was made at a new favorite locale of mine, Osteria Antica Pisano in the Forcella neighborhood. Chef Gennaro offered a typical plate, gently simmered octopus with fresh, local cherry tomatoes and white wine. We ended the evening in Vomero at the pizzerria La Notizia. Owner Enzo Coccia was my teacher in 2004. Enzo provided me with the foundation that has allowed me to evolve as a pizza maker. It was great to be with him once again. From the beginning of this trip, the making of pizza would be a constant focal point. Conversations that began at Molino Caputo on our first day continued at each of the pizzerias we visited. One with Enzo’s fellow pizzaiuolo confirmed my thinking. This interesting thought shared by Davide, who works alongside Enzo at the pizza bank, was how many of us outsiders come to Napoli to learn the craft, but then transform la vera pizza into something else. My friend John Arena of Pizza Metro in Las Vegas speaks of tradition as something we are in the process of forgetting, and over time becomes transformed into something new. It is my wish, however, to not reinvent la vera pizza, but to stay connected to these traditions, and to stay true to the forms and ideas of all these great masters in Naples. In other words, to continue in the essence of all I have been so privileged to learn.

So it was very exciting it was for me to return to all of the pizzerias (Di Matteo, Da Michele, Trianon, La Notizia) where I have spent so much time in the past. So many of the pizzaiuoli have become friends and continue to provide me with great counsel and encouragement. I believe it is my true respect for their craft that has allowed for such intimate relationships to evolve. They all have such different styles and interpretations of la vera pizza. Some hands are gentle, others more vigorous. Some pizzas are soft, others a touch more crisp. What is common to all is their love for pizza, their pride in making it and their pleasure in the joy it brings to everyone.

The last round of antipasti was filmed in the colorful kitchen of the Donna Regina. An incredible bed & breakfast near the Duomo and Spaccanapoli, it is like a home for me in Napoli. The walls are adorned with art; sculpture, antique furniture, and books everywhere. The proprietors are a lovely family, spanning several generations. Their knowledge of food, wine, geography and history is endless. Domenico Mazzella and his uncle Mario Raffone were the chefs for this final round. The theme was alici/acciughe (anchovies), the jewel of the Mediterranean. The alici were as fresh as one could find anywhere along the coast. Domenico was at the port near dawn to purchase these silver beauties directly from one of the local pescatore (fisherman). We had them battered and fried, stuffed, sautéed, and even made into little fish balls. We also had them with the pasta we brought back from the world famous town of Gragnano, the original source of artiginal maccheroni. To wash down the anchovies, we had the pleasure of a wonderful white wine, Asperinio di Aversa. This was truly a special vintage, not available to the general public. It had an unfiltered look, slightly sour and crisp, as described by Shelly Lindgren in her book A16.

After my final meal with Sky and her crew, Mario, Domenico, Margherita (Domenico’s friend) and I made our way south into the Cilento, though I had just returned from the Cilento only twenty four hours before. We made our way to Palinuro, a gem set on the Tyrrhenian Sea. The entire region, the Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo di Diano, is a Unesco World Heritage Site. A wonderful book entitled The Food and Wine Guide to Naples and Campania by Carla Capalbo offers a great understanding of all there is to eat, drink and experience in this area. The countryside is mountainous, the coastline is spectacular. For our first day in the mountains we stayed at the Villa Balbi di Sabino Sasso. We had a leisurely meal lasting over four hours with six bottles of wine.

Everything on the table, the legumes, salumi, pastas and cheeses, was from their own land. We even had a dolce topped with a mix of chocolate, herbs and sangue di maiale (pigs blood). Their imagination brought forth delicacies fuori del mondo, out of this world. Besides their home made wine, we were blessed to enjoy a wonderful digestivo, Finochiona, at the meal’s end. I had thought this spirit was made from fennel, but it actually comes from a wild flower.

The following day we were by the sea at the Taverno del Porto in Palinuro. Another four hours, another incredible meal. One cannot truly describe the taste and texture of fish just taken from the sea, it needs to be experienced! We had it all, cicinielli, alici, shrimp, baby octopus, tiny squid, tuna. Every dish was presented as art in the realm of a national treasure. So you get the picture that this was a wonderful trip. I am so thankful for all of the friends that I have in Italy. New doors are constantly being opened, every conversation leads to a new thought or desire. I could tell you about Podilico cows, I could tell you about artichokes and figs in Paestum, I could tell you about one of the greatest pizzerias, Europeo di A. Matttozzi, in all of Naples—but that will have to wait for another day. Basta per adesso!

Jonathan

Today I leave for Italy. It has been almost two years since I last set foot in the country that is so much a part of my being. In time for Pasquetta (little Easter), my friends will meet me at Fiumicino and whisk me away to their home on the beach near ancient Ostia. Pasquetta falls the day after Easter and is a day of feasts and picnics, which tradition says is to be spent with those you love.

After a night’s rest, I head to Napoli. While my intention for this trip was to re-engage with the pizzerias and pizza makers close to my heart, and to visit some other highly recommended spots, my plans have taken an exciting turn. I will be working with Sky Dylan-Robbins, a young film maker I met two years ago when she was a freshman journalism student at Northwestern University. Truly talented, she created a wonderful video on the spirituality of food featuring Spacca Napoli. Sky has been in Bologna this year, documenting the making of chocolate, doughnuts, pasta, and the quintessential Italian cheese, Parmigiano-Reggiano. These specialties and their time honored traditions are lovingly portrayed in her work.

After a day to wander the streets of Spacca Napoli and other quartiere (neighborhoods), Sky and I will get to work. First stop is Molino Caputo, the producers of our flour. Dating back to 1924, this flour mill is world renown. We’ll meet with two generations of the Caputo family, Antimo and Eugenio. Eugenio (the master technician) will walk us through the milling process, while both he and Antimo answer my never ending questions about dough. We’ll go on to the pizzerias where I’ve spent so many hours, and interview the third and fourth generation family that came over to build our oven. These folks, have had a significant influence on my development as a pizza maker and celebrator of culinary and cultural tradition.

Then it’s on to the Cilento, a beautiful region rich in history, that lies south of Salerno and the Amalfi Coast. We’ll be guests of Baronessa Cecilia Bellelli Baratta and her two sons, Ettore and Massimino. Their working farm and inn, Tenuta Seliano, is near Paestum, where the Greeks had a colony circa 600 B.C. Ginny and I were there two years ago when Arthur Schwartz was running one of the culinary programs that he and Cecilia offer several times a year. We’ll observe the way mozzarella di bufala and ricotta are made. There are around 900 head of water buffalo on their farm and I will try my hand at milking! I would love to learn and master making treccia (braided) mozzarella, but I trust it takes years of practice. Finally we will head to the Baronessa’s kitchen. She is excited to demonstrate many of the wonderful antipasti and classic fritti typical of the area.

Returning to Naples we’ll visit some incredible pastry shops and cafes that are the pride of Napoletani. As Sky and her crew make their way north, I’ll return with my friend Domenico to the interior of the Cilento to some smaller villages and sample some local foods. Wherever I end up, I trust that the days will go by quickly. I look forward to seeing the masters and artisans at their work and familiarizing myself once again with the nuances of pizza, as they differ from one locale to the next. This brings to mind the expression “De Gustibus Non Disputandium Est”: Taste is not to be disputed. Though we all have our favorite pizzeria, café, or pasticceria, they are all to be celebrated.

A presto,

Jonathan

Sorry for the delay, I now have a moment to sit down and write. Monday, February 15th, one day after our fourth anniversary, we opened the doors to our expansion. Together with friends and colleagues we celebrated a night of folkloric music and dance, opera, and of course, la cucina napoletana.

In my opening remarks I spoke of “un altro livello”. We’ve been getting feedback that the new space simultaneously joins and transcends what we had previously created, taking it to another level. None of this would have ever happened without the many hours of hard work by so many dedicated and talented artisans. My wife Ginny’s intuitive and creative vision was what brought this “altro livello” to fruition.

Behind the new glass sliding doors, are two warm hued rooms with artwork including Mario Raffone’s prints featuring the beloved pulcinella, and two Italian oil landscapes from my father’s travels to Italy. A new painting Ginny did for the smaller room is derived from images of ancient amphore, the containers found in archeological sites that held olive oil and wine. The floors are a rich, terra cotta tile with medallion insets and the wood work, beautiful wine storage unit and shutters were specially made.

The space is flexible and accommodates parties, meetings, and other occasions for up to 52. We can also split the space for several groups, including our intimate side room with a family style table for 20. We now take reservations on Friday and Saturday nights, so wait times have been greatly reduced. We welcome all of you as we go into our fifth year.

Jonathan