Jonathan’s Letter

The phone call came, “Francesca’s getting married!” Delighted, we made plans and returned to Puglia and my beloved Rodi Garganico. Thank you Francesca, daughter of Nando and Anna, granddaughter of Sparta and Giovanni, longtime friend of our daughter Sarah.

Though our visit was short, it as fantastically fun. Have you ever heard anything about an Italian wedding? What they say is true!

It is a feast and celebration that goes long into the night, ending with fireworks. The reception was set in a beautiful valley of the Gargano near Pechici, with strolling grounds and stunning vistas. The antipasti and subsequent courses seemingly went on for miles! Fresh fish, prosciutto, salumi, cheeses, vini, pasta, carne, dolce, un po di musica, la bellazza. We had to walk between courses to keep up! It was a happy reunion with many old and dear friends to catch up with — and great fun to see the young people we had known since they were small children all together still, and on to their adult lives.

We stayed in Rodi where the birds up in the hills overlooking the sea never stopped singing, even at night. I love it in the country side, la campagnia, hanging out with Giovanni and Sparta, now well into their 80’s. Though Giovanni is now 85, he is still working the land.

The land there is blessed, producing olives, oranges, lemons, figs, peaches, apples, pomegranates, grapes, fiori. With sunrises, sunsets, the sound of the sea, what more could you want. A few homemade cannoli, lots of love, offers of young wine and fresh olive oil.

All too quickly Ginny and I were on our way to Le Campestre, an agriturismo with only a few rooms, in the Provincia di Casserta. Close to the village of Castel di Sasso, this place is breathtaking, with a long and rich food history and tradition. The proprietors of this wonderful spot, the Lombardis, are a lovely family, very much in tune with the earth and the tranquility of nature.

Everything that is put on the table comes from their own land. They are the makers of a particular sheep’s milk cheese, Conciato Romano, that dates back to the time of agro-pastoral tradition. Their efforts have been recognized and supported by Carlo Petrini, founder of the Slow Food movement. To wash down the Conciato Romano, the indigenous Casavecchia wine from their vineyard was the only choice needed!

Near Le Campestre is the town of Caiazzo. I had been there years ago and wanted to show Ginny its beautiful, intimate piazza that is shaded by two towering trees. In the town center there is a small pizzeria, Antica Osteria Pizzeria Pepe, that is run by a trio of brothers.

They are the third generation, the pizzeria having been established by their grandfather and then continued by their father. I learned of the pizzeria when reading through Carla Capalbo’s Food and Wine Guide to Naples and Campania. Though the brothers all have full time careers elsewhere, they were not willing to let go of the tradition that had been established by their father and grandfather. I had the good fortune of meeting one of the brothers, Franco. Though it was too early in the day to try one of their pizzas, you could feel the love and respect that Franco has for the pizza and his wish to honor his father and grandfather by not changing the techniques that he and his brothers learned as children. The dough is mixed by hand, not by machine. The blend of flours used for the dough varies according to the weather. They do not depend on a commercial bakers yeast, a lievito madre is their foundation. Come October, I hope to be in residence with them for a couple of weeks.

On to Rome where our last full day we saw a stunning exhibition of Caravaggio, the pictures remarkably fresh and still powerful. Though we have seen his work before in Italy, Ginny remarked on the poignant sense of self portraiture that emanated throughout each work, and the curatorial expertise in lighting the work from the same angle that the inner light of the paintings were painted from, creating maximum impact. What a genius. Though leaving Italy is always sad, I always look forward to our final stop prior to departure. Castel Gandolfo, just outside of Rome, is truly magical.

Situated high above a volcanic lake, this is where a succession of Popes have summered for hundreds and hundreds of years. We have a favorite ristorante, Bucci, and a lovely intimate hotel, recently remodeled, with a view of the lake, called Hotel Castel Gandolfo. It is a prefect ending every time, allowing us to ease out of Italy.

Jonathan

It was an amazing trip! Though jet lagged, I returned home from Italy at the end of April excited and inspired. After a brief stay in Rome, I headed right to Napoli. Before I even made it to my bed and breakfast, the Donna Regina, I was organizing for the film crew skymedia that was to arrive the following morning. While the days were long, in a short period of time, Sky, her crew and I visited and filmed four pizzerias, the Molino Caputo flour mill, a pasta factory in historic Gragnano, bufala mozzarella producers at Tenuta Seliano south of Salerno in Paestum, and three very different presentations of antipasti at various locations.

I’ll start with the antipasti. In the Cilento, the Baronessa Cecilia Bellelli Baratta prepared mozzarella in carrozza, zucchine a fiammifero and one of my favorites, panzerotti filled with escarole and pine nuts. This feast followed a lovely interview with her on the grounds of her agricultural tourism establishment about the history of bufala and an early morning visit to her caseficio where fresh bufala milk is formed daily into all types of mozzarella, ricotta and yogurt. By the way, the water buffalo are very sweet animals.

Zooming back to Napoli, our second round of antipasti was made at a new favorite locale of mine, Osteria Antica Pisano in the Forcella neighborhood. Chef Gennaro offered a typical plate, gently simmered octopus with fresh, local cherry tomatoes and white wine. We ended the evening in Vomero at the pizzerria La Notizia. Owner Enzo Coccia was my teacher in 2004. Enzo provided me with the foundation that has allowed me to evolve as a pizza maker. It was great to be with him once again. From the beginning of this trip, the making of pizza would be a constant focal point. Conversations that began at Molino Caputo on our first day continued at each of the pizzerias we visited. One with Enzo’s fellow pizzaiuolo confirmed my thinking. This interesting thought shared by Davide, who works alongside Enzo at the pizza bank, was how many of us outsiders come to Napoli to learn the craft, but then transform la vera pizza into something else. My friend John Arena of Pizza Metro in Las Vegas speaks of tradition as something we are in the process of forgetting, and over time becomes transformed into something new. It is my wish, however, to not reinvent la vera pizza, but to stay connected to these traditions, and to stay true to the forms and ideas of all these great masters in Naples. In other words, to continue in the essence of all I have been so privileged to learn.

So it was very exciting it was for me to return to all of the pizzerias (Di Matteo, Da Michele, Trianon, La Notizia) where I have spent so much time in the past. So many of the pizzaiuoli have become friends and continue to provide me with great counsel and encouragement. I believe it is my true respect for their craft that has allowed for such intimate relationships to evolve. They all have such different styles and interpretations of la vera pizza. Some hands are gentle, others more vigorous. Some pizzas are soft, others a touch more crisp. What is common to all is their love for pizza, their pride in making it and their pleasure in the joy it brings to everyone.

The last round of antipasti was filmed in the colorful kitchen of the Donna Regina. An incredible bed & breakfast near the Duomo and Spaccanapoli, it is like a home for me in Napoli. The walls are adorned with art; sculpture, antique furniture, and books everywhere. The proprietors are a lovely family, spanning several generations. Their knowledge of food, wine, geography and history is endless. Domenico Mazzella and his uncle Mario Raffone were the chefs for this final round. The theme was alici/acciughe (anchovies), the jewel of the Mediterranean. The alici were as fresh as one could find anywhere along the coast. Domenico was at the port near dawn to purchase these silver beauties directly from one of the local pescatore (fisherman). We had them battered and fried, stuffed, sautéed, and even made into little fish balls. We also had them with the pasta we brought back from the world famous town of Gragnano, the original source of artiginal maccheroni. To wash down the anchovies, we had the pleasure of a wonderful white wine, Asperinio di Aversa. This was truly a special vintage, not available to the general public. It had an unfiltered look, slightly sour and crisp, as described by Shelly Lindgren in her book A16.

After my final meal with Sky and her crew, Mario, Domenico, Margherita (Domenico’s friend) and I made our way south into the Cilento, though I had just returned from the Cilento only twenty four hours before. We made our way to Palinuro, a gem set on the Tyrrhenian Sea. The entire region, the Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo di Diano, is a Unesco World Heritage Site. A wonderful book entitled The Food and Wine Guide to Naples and Campania by Carla Capalbo offers a great understanding of all there is to eat, drink and experience in this area. The countryside is mountainous, the coastline is spectacular. For our first day in the mountains we stayed at the Villa Balbi di Sabino Sasso. We had a leisurely meal lasting over four hours with six bottles of wine.

Everything on the table, the legumes, salumi, pastas and cheeses, was from their own land. We even had a dolce topped with a mix of chocolate, herbs and sangue di maiale (pigs blood). Their imagination brought forth delicacies fuori del mondo, out of this world. Besides their home made wine, we were blessed to enjoy a wonderful digestivo, Finochiona, at the meal’s end. I had thought this spirit was made from fennel, but it actually comes from a wild flower.

The following day we were by the sea at the Taverno del Porto in Palinuro. Another four hours, another incredible meal. One cannot truly describe the taste and texture of fish just taken from the sea, it needs to be experienced! We had it all, ciccinielli, alici, shrimp, baby octopus, tiny squid, tuna. Every dish was presented as art in the realm of a national treasure. So you get the picture that this was a wonderful trip. I am so thankful for all of the friends that I have in Italy. New doors are constantly being opened, every conversation leads to a new thought or desire. I could tell you about Podilico cows, I could tell you about artichokes and figs in Paestum, I could tell you about one of the greatest pizzerias, Europeo di A. Matttozzi, in all of Naples—but that will have to wait for another day. Basta per adesso!

Jonathan

Today I leave for Italy. It has been almost two years since I last set foot in the country that is so much a part of my being. In time for Pasquetta (little Easter), my friends will meet me at Fiumicino and whisk me away to their home on the beach near ancient Ostia. Pasquetta falls the day after Easter and is a day of feasts and picnics, which tradition says is to be spent with those you love.

After a night’s rest, I head to Napoli. While my intention for this trip was to re-engage with the pizzerias and pizza makers close to my heart, and to visit some other highly recommended spots, my plans have taken an exciting turn. I will be working with Sky Dylan-Robbins, a young film maker I met two years ago when she was a freshman journalism student at Northwestern University. Truly talented, she created a wonderful video on the spirituality of food featuring Spacca Napoli. Sky has been in Bologna this year, documenting the making of chocolate, doughnuts, pasta, and the quintessential Italian cheese, Parmigiano-Reggiano. These specialties and their time honored traditions are lovingly portrayed in her work.

After a day to wander the streets of Spacca Napoli and other quartiere (neighborhoods), Sky and I will get to work. First stop is Molino Caputo, the producers of our flour. Dating back to 1924, this flour mill is world renown. We’ll meet with two generations of the Caputo family, Antimo and Eugenio. Eugenio (the master technician) will walk us through the milling process, while both he and Antimo answer my never ending questions about dough. We’ll go on to the pizzerias where I’ve spent so many hours, and interview the third and fourth generation family that came over to build our oven. These folks, have had a significant influence on my development as a pizza maker and celebrator of culinary and cultural tradition.

Then it’s on to the Cilento, a beautiful region rich in history, that lies south of Salerno and the Amalfi Coast. We’ll be guests of Baronessa Cecilia Bellelli Baratta and her two sons, Ettore and Massimino. Their working farm and inn, Tenuta Seliano, is near Paestum, where the Greeks had a colony circa 600 B.C. Ginny and I were there two years ago when Arthur Schwartz was running one of the culinary programs that he and Cecilia offer several times a year. We’ll observe the way mozzarella di bufala and ricotta are made. There are around 900 head of water buffalo on their farm and I will try my hand at milking! I would love to learn and master making treccia (braided) mozzarella, but I trust it takes years of practice. Finally we will head to the Baronessa’s kitchen. She is excited to demonstrate many of the wonderful antipasti and classic fritti typical of the area.

Returning to Naples we’ll visit some incredible pastry shops and cafes that are the pride of Napolitani. As Sky and her crew make their way north, I’ll return with my friend Domenico to the interior of the Cilento to some smaller villages and sample some local foods. Wherever I end up, I trust that the days will go by quickly. I look forward to seeing the masters and artisans at their work and familiarizing myself once again with the nuances of pizza, as they differ from one locale to the next. This brings to mind the expression “De Gustibus Non Disputandium Est”: Taste is not to be disputed. Though we all have our favorite pizzeria, café, or pasticceria, they are all to be celebrated.

A presto,

Jonathan

Sorry for the delay, I now have a moment to sit down and write. Monday, February 15th, one day after our fourth anniversary, we opened the doors to our expansion. Together with friends and colleagues we celebrated a night of folkloric music and dance, opera, and of course, la cucina napoletana.

In my opening remarks I spoke of “un altro livello”. We’ve been getting feedback that the new space simultaneously joins and transcends what we had previously created, taking it to another level. None of this would have ever happened without the many hours of hard work by so many dedicated and talented artisans. My wife Ginny’s intuitive and creative vision was what brought this “altro livello” to fruition.

Behind the new glass sliding doors, are two warm hued rooms with artwork including Mario Raffone’s prints featuring the beloved pulcinella, and two Italian oil landscapes from my father’s travels to Italy. A new painting Ginny did for the smaller room is derived from images of ancient amphore, the containers found in archeological sites that held olive oil and wine. The floors are a rich, terra cotta tile with medallion insets and the wood work, beautiful wine storage unit and shutters were specially made.

The space is flexible and accommodates parties, meetings, and other occasions for up to 52. We can also split the space for several groups, including our intimate side room with a family style table for 20. We now take reservations on Friday and Saturday nights, so wait times have been greatly reduced. We welcome all of you as we go into our fifth year.

Jonathan

We are busy here at Spacca Napoli. The holidays are upon us, and there is much to do. Beginning in early September we started on an expansion of the pizzeria that will almost double our indoor capacity! These plans have long been in the works, in some ways since our earliest days. This year the timing felt right, and we look forward to being able to share our new spaces with you!

We are well under way with the construction and have several city inspections this week. Once we receive approvals on the work performed to date, we will close the walls and begin the fun stuff, such as lighting, tile, cabinetry and the introduction of color. I am confident that the additional two rooms will be pleasing to the eye and ease the wait time for a table. Reservations will be available on Friday and Saturday evenings. Larger parties and private events, no problem! Though starting my days earlier than usual to accommodate the crews has been a little rough, it also has been a lot of fun. I have always liked the demolition part of a project and the excitement of making a new space out of a raw space; this harks back to my pre-pizzeria construction days. All of the trades working on this project take pride in their work and have begun to coalesce as a family, in a way not unlike that of our staff.

Speaking of family, Keith Will, a guiding light at Spacca Napoli, and I participated as we do each year in the Inspiration Café’s Anniversary Dinner fund raiser. This was a particularly special night, a celebration of twenty years of service to the homeless community of Chicago. Keith shares my love for the Inspiration Café, it is truly in our blood. We always look forward to the call for help for this event. Though our main task is doing the dishes, we often are asked by award winning Chef Dominique Tougne of Bistro 110 (the event’s grand master) to work alongside his staff and those of the French Pastry School as the evening progresses.  It’s not a bad job!  And the treats Chef Dominique puts forth are readily available for all of us to enjoy.

On December 7th I will team up with restaurants Piccolo Sogno, Phil Stefani 437 Rush, and Italian Village, as well as with Isola Imports and Palm Bay International to sponsor the Italian Chamber of Commerce’s 2009 Christmas Reception. A portion of the funds raised by the event will be donated to the Cook Italy Education Foundation. Cook Italy was created to provide nutritional education to disadvantaged children in Chicago. We are serving bruschetta with ricotta and peperonata, octopus salad, roasted asparagus with walnut crème and pecorino tartufo, and lastly, Neapolitan meatloaf (Polpetone) with prosciutto, scamorza and parmigiano, made possible with much appreciated help by my own kitchen at Spacca.

The asparagus recipe mentioned above comes from Nate Appleman’s and Shelly Lindgren’s A16 Food and Wine cook book. I am never at a loss to find something new and delightful when I look to them for ideas. The Polpetone comes from a new book, Cucina Napoletana by Arturo Iengo.  Just added to my collection is Arthur Schwartz’s The Southern Italian Table, Authentic Tastes from Traditional Kitchens. I can’t wait to introduce new specials at the pizzeria that Arthur has so lovingly embraced and shares with everyone.

In early December Ginny goes to San Francisco to hear our friend Pasquale Esposito perform.  A wonderful voice (he has crafted a unique pop opera style) and a beautiful person, Pasquale, a native of Napoli, found us when he was here in Chicago in 2006. In October of this year Pasquale was here to sing again. Before flying out on Monday afternoon, he came by with his manager, musical arranger, and his adopted from the heart American parents to make some pizza and have a little Minestra Maritata. I couldn’t help putting Neapolitan Classic, Salsiccia e Broccoletti on the table.

While Ginny is on the West Coast, she will visit a very popular new spot, Flour and Water, which was just written up in the NY Times Travel magazine on Nov 22nd. Their principal pizzaiolo Jon Darsky was visiting family in the neighborhood (our neighborhood), and asked if he could spend a day with me at the pizzeria. It’s always a pleasure to share time with another of the pizza community.  Like San Francisco, in Chicago we continue to see new pizzerias open and are proud to be part of this camaraderie.  It’s an exciting time for all of us. My thanks to all of you. I enjoy what I do, I am inspired. Happy Thanksgiving!

Jonathan

We’re back from holiday and it’s almost October. Though sitting on the beach and driving through olive groves in Greece is fun, I’m happy to be home and at the pizzeria. I am always excited to revisit my cook books and see if there is something new that we can introduce at Spacca Napoli. I want to introduce to you two new specials that we will run for the next couple of weeks.

Minestra Maritata is one and is a special treat, perfect for autumn weather. A minestra, not a zuppa, it predates the tomato. The recipe can be found in Arthur Schwartz’s Naples at Table. Arthur notes that it comes from a time when the Campanians were still known as “mangiafogli” which means leaf eaters. A fun read is Arthur’s discussion of minestra as a word and concept to define in English. The Maritata is a marriage, a loving, poetic embrace between a meaty broth and leafy vegetables. Prosciutto, pork loin, salami, pancetta and soppressata are long simmered with a bouquet of fresh rosemary, sage, thyme and parsley. The meats are taken out, finely chopped and the soup is strained. Kale, broccoli rabe (rapini), escarole, curly endive and savoy cabbage are coarsely chopped and added into the soup, along with the meats, and the rich, velvety, clarified broth is then topped with pecorino and our hot red pepper oil.

This minestra has brought back memories for many of the Italians who have tried our Maritata. Truly a hearty dish, every home had its own particular version. It reminds me of food writer Pat Bruno’s discussion of the joys of Italian food and how the making of a recipe is greatly influenced by the one who makes it. When traveling through Greece, Ginny was always quick to taste the local moussaka. A traditional dish, consisting of lamb or beef, eggplant, potatoes, tomatoes, a cream sauce and spices, no one moussaka tasted like the other, and each was served with a sense of familial pride.

Reaching back to antiquity, our second special is a pizza with lardo. A cured pork fat, it is considered a delicacy by many.

I first experienced lardo while in Zibello, on the banks of the Po River in northern Italy, during a trip with members of Accademia Barilla. There we sampled cullotello, lardo, and other salumi. Zibello is famous for its cullotello, which comes from the leg of an adult hog and goes through a special curing process; Zibello’s micro climate lending itself favorably for the curing of this particular cut of pig. See ItalianMade.com – Foods: Culatello di Zibello for more on the subject.

Way back when, the earliest of flat breads were flavored only with oil and herbs – not with tomatoes and cheese. Our “Allardiato,” consists of mild, creamy, thin ribbons of lardo with pecorino cheese and basil. The taste is something unique and amazing.

We have also begun to play with our wine list. I am now trying to introduce wines that are more particular to pizza and not only representative of the south of Italy. Be on the look out for new Nero d’Avolas, a new Montepulciano di Abruzzo, whites from Puglia, and reds and rosatos from Sardegna.

Last but definitely not least, we are having fun with Nutella! Though a surprise to some, this sweet dessert can be found as a dolce in many a pizzeria a Napoli.

Ciao per adesso,

Jonathan

Ferragosto has just passed and I’ve made my calls to Italy. Ferragosto falls on the 15th of August and is a day of celebration throughout Italy. This holiday predates the time of Christ when the Romans honored their Gods, in particular Diana, and the cycle of fertility and ripening. It was then called Feriae Augusti. I remember our first summer in Torre Del Lago, watching the children splash water on whoever was nearby. It is a day of feasting, toasting and being with those you enjoy. It brings me back to my beloved Rodi Garganico and the wonderful memories I have so close to my heart.

Though we lived in Firenze (Florence) where Ginny was painting and Sarah was attending la scuola elementare, Gaetano Agnessi, on Via Mafia near Santo Sprito, our summers were in the Gargano in Puglia. For me, it was heaven. Rodi Garganico, both fishing and agricultural village, sits on a promontory along the Adriatic Sea.

I often slept outside under the stars, catching the early morning sunrise as well as the full cycle of the moon. I measured my time in Rodi by the full moons I would experience over the summer. From our terrace, you could see the old villas, the sea, and the Grecian style village of Rodi from afar.

Early morning visits to the market were wonderful. There was a certain quiet that was so peaceful. There were the local contadini selling fresh ricotta, caciocavallo, all types of fish, salumi, cactus fruit, peaches and so much more. Imagine what it is like to feast on fresh baked Pugliese bread and sfogliatelle just out of the oven.

Rodi was famous for its citrus, both lemons and oranges. I was once told that the nearby Tremeti Islands’ sheltered the coast line and the surrounding hills from the northern Alpine winds, creating a micro climate conducive to the growth of these lemons and oranges. La famiglia Ciampa, originally of Sorrento on the Amalfi Coast, had land in Rodi and won the premio, (first prize) for best of fruit at Chicago’s World Exposition in 1893.

We have a wonderful book at home documenting the images and logos of the various local families who were significant exporters of these fruits. The paper cloths that were used to individually wrap these fruits bore their images.

By clipping the fruits at the stem and letting them drop into the cloth without touching them, they sustained their freshness all the way to the new world. A special moment for me was handing one of these cloths over to our dear friend, Michele Pilot, of Monte Verde, Roma and Rodi Garganico. The cloth had been given to me by the local priest and bore the name Ognissanti, Michael’s family name of origin.

Michael taught me how to make various fresh pastas including orchiette. Orchiette, meaning “little ears,” is a pasta typical of Puglia. Michael also taught me his sugo, sauce, for amatriciana using guancialle instead of pancetta. Michael’s mother and father-in-law were second generation proprietors of what had been a very popular trattoria in Rome called Carlo di Trastevere.

I have a lovely memory of an early morning shop with Michael for artichokes before catching a flight back home to America. Carciofi Judaica are a local specialty and it was fun to see Michael and his father-in-law pare the artichokes to see who had the most expertise. I think Lorenzo’s hand and his wife Marisa’s finishing touches at the stove put Lorenzo on top.

I have so many food memories from Italy that fill my heart.

Visiting Rodi in the winter and having Giovanni Albano specially make me one of my favorites, calamari ripieno, or his son Nando preparing sepia (cuttle fish) in the actual ink are just two more. Nando’s wife, my beloved Anna, would always ensure that I had a piece of pecorino or prosciutto or something special from the fridge. We have known the Albano family close to twenty years. Our second summer in Rodi, 1989, I worked for them on the beach as their bagnino (“little bath boy”) Early every morning, I would go down to the beach, open the umbrellas and set the lettini and lounge chairs in order for the day.

I long for the time when I will be in Rodi in early September to stomp grapes by foot with Giovanni. These are the grapes they grow to make a gentle vino frizzante. Though a vino rosso, it is served from the fridge and gives me as much pleasure as a glass of any of the finer wines. It was several years before I realized that the clumps of grapes that I chose every morning for my walk down to the beach were the grapes that were to be used for their wine! Signora Sparta, Giovanni’s wife, never told me not to touch them. My Signora Sparta, she is the one who always has a bottle of ficchi cotto for me to bring home, even when Giovanni has said that the year has been troppo seccho (too dry) for the figs to grow in abundance to make the cotto. A drop of cotto on cappuccino gelato is such a treat. There are many recipes that have been given to me that I look forward to making. Skate fish, risotto with strawberries, and Easter lamb are just a few.

Come the end of August we will close for two weeks. It has been a wonderful summer, but I am ready to rest and pay more attention to the love of my life, my partner, Ginny. We are in the process of expansion and hope to showcase what we create by early to mid November. I will be sorry to see the last of our fiore di zucca (zucchini flowers) and granchio (soft shell crabs) come off the menu, but before we close I will make my own interpretation of Antonio Starita’s pizza that was made for Pope John Paul at the time of the Jubileo. We have beautiful organic yellow squash to be roasted and blended with bufala ricotta. The cream will be adorned with red and yellow peppers, a touch of artichoke, and the last of the fiore.

Buon Agosto! Ci vedremmo a Septembre.

Gianni

Just a quick update: We have been running some wonderful seasonal specials which will continue for another week or so.

The first, Il Granchio, from Nate Appleman of San Francisco’s celebrated A16 restaurant, has been a hit. Using soft shell crabs from Maryland, not the Dungeness of the Pacific, we sautée them with extra virgin olive oil, white wine, and lemon. Rapini with a touch of anchovy is placed over garlic bruschetta and then topped with these delicate, delicious gifts of the Chesapeake Bay.

Fiori di Zucca are another special treat which bring a smile to those familiar with them. The blossoms of the zucchini are filled with ricotta and other treats. They are then lightly battered, fried, and sprinkled with a touch of salt. Another item to make its way into our kitchen is Bietole. From my aunt Joyce Goldstein’s cookbook, Kitchen Conversations, Bietole is a wonderful summer salad consisting of Treviso radicchio, oven roasted beets, a warm pancetta vinaigrette, and crumbled goat cheese. As in past summers, when the honeydew has achieved its sweetness, we pair it with our Greci and Folzani prosciutto crudo. Come try them while they are still on the menu!

Si mangia bene a Spacca Napoli!

Buona Estate!

Too much time has passed since my last posting. The last few months have been quite hectic. May 19th just after midnight my father passed away at age 86. He was quite comfortable, his hand held by the nighttime nurse and the gentle voice of Frank Sinatra filling the room. My father worked in Como, Italy for over 30 years as a stylista in men’s neckwear. Como, the center for silk in Northern Italy, sits on a beautiful lake surrounded by snow capped mountains, villas and gardens. My father had many great friends in Italy, their hearts and homes always open and never missing an opportunity to share with him, “the good life.” My family and I have also been blessed in this way, where from north to south, including Turino, Milano, Firenze, Ascoli Piceno, Roma, Rodi Garganico, Benevento, and Napoli we have and continue to experience much love and good will with our friends there.

So what else can I tell you? Late April Baronessa Cecilia Belleli Baratta of Tenuta Seliano of Paestum and her four sisters  came for dinner. Tenuta Seliano is a working farm and beautiful agritourism inn, and is home to some 800 water buffalo. Baronessa Cecilia’s two sons are considered world masters of bufala mozzarella artisanal products. What a group!

Mid May is the time for the annual National Restaurant Show, and once again we hosted a dinner for a select group of friends who were part of that event. We were graced by John Arena and Sam Facchini of Las Vegas (Metro Pizza), John and Lisa Nitti of Chicago’s Isola Imports, representatives from La Spaziale Espresso, and Miss Italy USA, as well as others in the restaurant industry.

A trip to Los Angeles in late May allowed Ginny and me the opportunity to dine at Nancy Silverton’s much celebrated restaurant, Mozza, co-owned with Mario Batali. They have put together quite a collection of pizze and antipasti. Nancy’s new book, Twist of the Wrist, will inspire you to create gourmet meals at home using many of the specialty products easily found in the neighborhood or over the internet. Nancy’s spinach salad with lentils and crispy warm goat cheese was quick to find its way onto our specials menu board. We use the freshly made creamy goat cheese from local farmers Leslie Cooperband and Wes Jarrell of Prairie Fruits Farm and Creamery, whom I met at Spence Farm during Rampfest, and who sell at Green City Market.

Whenever I made my way to New York City to visit my father, I would see my friend Roberto Caporuscio at his newly opened Keste Pizzeria on Bleeker Street. I am always excited to see what new ideas I can glean from him. The notion of quiet hands and a gentle touch to the dough continues to be so important. Allowing the dough to rest for a longer period of time while out of the fridge and before extending it at the pizza bank continues to be a positive influence on the final product. One of Roberto’s offerings, Battilocchio Del Giorno, is now one of the special treats we occasionally offer while diners are waiting for a table or have just been seated. The name battilocchio is truly of Napolitano Dialetto, meaning someone who is some what slow but not necessarily cattivo (which in English means bad or naughty). A battilocchio is made by cutting one pagnotto (dough ball) in half and extending the dough in a quadrangular form. Always careful to leave the cornicione (border) untouched, we spread the interior with a mix of bufala ricotta blended with red and yellow pepper and anchovy. As we get more adventurous, other spreads, such as pecorino sardo with white truffle and porcini mushrooms, will be introduced.

On the dessert end, we have introduced panna cotta to our list of dolci. A loving mix of cream, milk, sugar and vanilla, it is currently being topped with seasonal rhubarb. When the time is right, don’t be surprised if you find the panna cotta topped with hand cut pears and balsamic vinegar.

And not to be missed:
Our dear friend Jed Fielding, whose photographs of beautiful and vibrant Naples adorn our walls, has a solo exhibition entitled 30 Years on the Street through July 3rd at the Catherine Edelman Gallery in Chicago.

His book City of Secrets, of 30 years of street work in Naples can always be found by our host stand. A brilliant discussion of his photography can be found at www.edelmangallery.com/fieldingvideotalk.htm

The month of June officially begins our new summer hours! The sidewalk café is open and there is nothing better than a meal al fresco when the weather is just right. So take advantage of our (new) Monday through Sunday availability, I’m waiting for you. To my staff and loving friends of the pizzeria, I thank you all for your support and compassion.

Jonathan

Friday, April 3rd was Ramp Fest, held at Garfield Park Conservatory to benefit The Land Connection. It was a great evening with wonderful food that was enjoyed by a large and enthusiastic crowd dedicated to sustainable farming and local produce. Ginny and I even had the opportunity to spend a few moments with guest emcee, Bill Kurtis. Mr. Kurtis, the well known and well loved Chicago-based journalist and Tallgrass Beef Rancher, is truly an inspiration.

Environmental and health issues have long been of interest to Mr. Kurtis and have strongly influenced how he relates to the prairie and raises cattle on the open range with only grass as feed.

We are still very much into the ramps, our wild onion. We will continue serving our focaccia ripiena (stuffed foaccia) with anchovies and ramps (achiughe e lampi) until there are no more to be found, so stop by soon! The season for ramps is actually quite short, maybe four weeks in all. I am already looking forward to next year. Being out on the Spence Farm last week digging for the ramps with other chefs and friends on the land was quite enjoyable. The farm dates its settlement to 1830. We all braved an early morning snow storm to make our way to the farm, but it was well worth it. Following the dig, a pot luck feast was waiting for us in the farm house.

Buona focaccia!

Jonathan