Jonathan’s Letter

Friday, April 3rd was Ramp Fest, held at Garfield Park Conservatory to benefit The Land Connection. It was a great evening with wonderful food that was enjoyed by a large and enthusiastic crowd dedicated to sustainable farming and local produce. Ginny and I even had the opportunity to spend a few moments with guest emcee, Bill Kurtis. Mr. Kurtis, the well known and well loved Chicago-based journalist and Tallgrass Beef Rancher, is truly an inspiration.

Environmental and health issues have long been of interest to Mr. Kurtis and have strongly influenced how he relates to the prairie and raises cattle on the open range with only grass as feed.

We are still very much into the ramps, our wild onion. We will continue serving our focaccia ripiena (stuffed foaccia) with anchovies and ramps (achiughe e lampi) until there are no more to be found, so stop by soon! The season for ramps is actually quite short, maybe four weeks in all. I am already looking forward to next year. Being out on the Spence Farm last week digging for the ramps with other chefs and friends on the land was quite enjoyable. The farm dates its settlement to 1830. We all braved an early morning snow storm to make our way to the farm, but it was well worth it. Following the dig, a pot luck feast was waiting for us in the farm house.

Buona focaccia!

Jonathan

What a great month so far. Here are some of the highlights.

I spent three days in Las Vegas for the International Pizza Expo. What a show! 1,000 exhibitors, 6,000 attendees; that’s a lot of pizza! I was part of the Neapolitan contingent. A remarkable group, it included Fred Mortati and Carlo Orlando of Orlando Foods, the exclusive importers of Antico Molino Caputo flour and Accademia Barilla products, Antimo and Eugenio Caputo of Antico Molino Caputo flour, Peppe Miele of the Associazione Vera Pizza Napoletana, Sergio Piccu of the Associazione Pizzaiuolli Napoletani, Antonio Starita of Pizzeria Starita in Napoli, Ciro Cacace, Antonio’s pizzaiuollo of 44 years, and Adolfo Marletta of La Spaghetta Pizzeria in Vomero, which is in the hills just above Napoli.

Antonio, Ciro and Adolfo are considered by many to be among the greatest of today’s Neapolitan pizza makers. I have previously written of Antonio having had the honor of presenting a pizza to Pope John Paul at the time of the Jubileo. The three of them were in Las Vegas to demonstrate the Neapolitan style of making dough, extending and topping the pie, and working their magic in the oven. To say they were well received is an understatement. By the time I said my goodbyes to all of them, I was very sad. However, if you believe in the power of the Madonna, you may relate to what happened next, as illustrated by the following tale (and short digression), a story well know in the south of Italy and beyond.

This story has a mythic quality: a merchant from Constantinople was on his way to Venice by sea (circa 1453) with valuable cargo including a panel painting of the Madonna. A powerful storm blew the ship onto the rocky shores of the Adriatic to the Gargano in Puglia, southern Italy. The merchant made several more attempts to set sail for Venice, but each time his ship was blown back onto the rocky shores. It was believed to be a sign of her power, and that she was meant to stay there. The Madonna now sits in the Chiesa Madonna della Libera in Rodi Garganico, my beloved adopted home, an old sea town surrounded by olive and citrus fruit groves. Every summer in Rodi there is a grand festa with a re-enactment of this event.

Back to Las Vegas 2009 and the Neapolitani, who had left the Las Vegas Expo for Napoli with a connecting flight in Chicago. Around 9:30 Friday evening (Friday the 13th) I received a phone call from Antimo Caputo. Their plane for Rome had made an emergency landing back in Chicago due to smoke in the cabin. They needed to stay overnight, and would be stopping by Spacca Napoli! I was so excited, for a moment I forgot about the terror they must have just experienced.

Finally around midnight they arrived, by which time everyone else at Spacca had gone. After reviewing what had happened, we made foccacia and then toured our operation. Their pride in what we have accomplished made me very happy. Sergio made pasta all’amatriciana and we drank a Montepulciano di Abruzzo, one of the new additions to our wine list. Ginny, my wife and partner, and Henry, my principal pizzaiuolo, joined us, and as we shared food, wine and conversation, we thought of the Madonna della Libera, and how symbolic their return was of her story. Antonio Starita demonstrated his mastery for extending the dough, and the other pizzaiuoli discussed the fine points of proper formulas for making dough as the seasons change and temperature and humidity are factored in. All this well after midnight, and in Neapolitan dialect! Our goodbyes were at 2:00 in the morning. It was a surreal experience and I still am in heaven from it.

We just hosted a large event with ChicaGourmets, an exciting and very active culinary organization in Chicago. The event combined art and food culture beginning with a reception in Ginny’s Studio Rose with prosecco, Neapolitan treats, and live music by Victor Sanders. Our dinner featured six pizzas and some of our favorite appetizers. A portion of the proceeds from the event went to benefit the Cook Italy Educational Foundation. To cap off the evening, Chicago Magazine Food Editor Penny Pollack discussed her passionate love for pizza and signed her book EVERYBODY LOVES PIZZA which she co-authored with Jeff Ruby.

I am spending a few days in New York to visit with my daughter Sarah, who will return to the pizzeria for the summer after she graduates from Hampshire College. Of our family, Sarah is the one with the proper Italian pronunciation. We are having dinner at Peasant on Elizabeth Street and she is willing to indulge my wish to hang out with Roberto Caporuscio as he gets ready to open his pizzeria (Keste) and pizza school on Bleeker Street.

On March 29th I will join several outstanding local chefs to forage for ramps (allium tricoccum), also known as wild leeks or onions, and for which Chicago was originally named by the Potowatomi tribe (Checagou). Ramps are the first edible green to come up each spring. Kris and Marty Travis, the stewards of Spence Farm in central Illinois, are donating the ramps we find on their land to RampFest, an annual spring fundraiser for Land Connection, an organization dedicated to conserving farmland, training farmers and supporting local food systems. This year’s event will be at Garfield Park Conservatory and will be emceed by Tallgrass Beef rancher Bill Kurtis. All the chefs will be making special dishes utilizing the collected ramps. Mine will be one of my favorites from the Gargano, a stuffed focaccia with caramelized ramps and anchovies served alongside fresh burrata cheese, another Pugliese specialty. Visit www.thelandconnection.org/events/rampfest_info.cfm
for tickets and more information. I hope to see you there.

Grazie,

Jonathan

February 14th, 2009, Valentine’s Day marks our third anniversary and we are thrilled to be entering our fourth year at Spacca Napoli. This anniversary makes me reflect on my beloved and loving staff and the wonderful camaraderie that has evolved here.

In his truly inspiring book, Small Giants, Bo Burlingham talks to small business owners and asks them what makes their businesses thrive. There is consensus how it is due to the working relationships that are built together over time. I recognize that my staff’s contribution to the Spacca Napoli community is a big part of who we are, and I think many of our guests consider them family like I do. I look forward every day not only to getting into the dough room, thinking about what I can offer, talking with my vendors and their drivers, and seeing new and regular customers, but also to my daily contact with all who work at the pizzeria.

Over New Years Ginny and I traveled to San Francisco to be with family and friends. We are all ‘buon gustaios — that means good eaters. A16, Delfina, and Perbacco are great restaurants to visit. A16 has come out with a very exciting book, A16 Food + Wine which has fabulous wine notes. I can’t wait to sit down and slowly absorb them.

We continue to introduce new pizza, courtesy of our friend Roberto Caporuscio such as La Cacciota which has cacciota di pecorino, bufala, and eggplant; Mascarpone, with gorgonzola torta di mascarpone, cherry tomatoes, mushrooms, and ricotta; and Il Padrino, with cacciocavallo, soprasatta picante, and gaeta olives. Roberto is about to open a pizzeria and school in New York City on Bleeker Street called Keste, Pizza, and Vino.

Should you be in New York, Peasant is another restaurant on Elizabeth Street that is not to be missed. They feature rustic cuisine, very much like La Vecchia Bettola in Florence. Another fun place to visit is the Obika Mozzarella Bar on Madison Avenue. Their focus, of course, is on bufala mozzarella. They offer only mozzarellas made from the bufala milk of selected DOP producers in the Paestum and Piana del Vulturno areas around Napoli, Paestum being a very delicate taste while that of Piana del Vulturno has a stronger profile.

Besides continuing to be influenced by Roberto’s ideas for new pizza combinations, some of our old favorites are back on the board. La Fontina features bufala, porcini, and crudo; the Cafuncella has smoked mozzarella, pancetta, and rosemary roasted potatoes; and the Mailina with guancialle are just a few examples. Our velvety polpo al sugo which is octopus simmered in San Marzano tomatoes, gaeta olives, capers, garlic, and parsley is truly a winner. End of the meal cannoli and chocolate infused grappa are also a lot of fun.

Next up is the annual Pizza Expo in Las Vegas. The expo is a great place to network and attend seminars. I have two good friends there, John Arena and Sam Fachini, cousins and owners of the Pizza Metro Pizzerias. I consider John and Sam my ‘consigliere’ and love to be in their presence. Together they have over 70 years of pizza experience combined. I met them several years ago through Penny Pollack and Jeff Ruby who are food editors of Chicago magazine and authors of the informative book, Everybody Loves Pizza. John and Sam grew up in Little Italy, New York, just steps away from Lombardi Pizzeria on Spring Street which was the first licensed pizzeria in the US circa 1905. At the Expo I stay close by Antimo and Eugenio Caputo, of Molino Caputo, the makers of our imported Neapolitan flour, my pizza grande friends Roberto Caporuscio and Antonio Starita, and Fred Mortati of Orlando foods, the importer of our Accademia Barilla products. I cannot tell you how much I learn when I am around and in dialogue with all of them. To me they represent what pizza is all about.

To all who read this, again my best wishes as we settle into the 2009. Thank you for all of your kindness and support. Happy anniversary! Auguri, tre anni.

Jonathan

Crucolo, ubriaco, montasio, stracchino, robiola bosina, and pecorino crotonese are some of the new cheeses that we are beginning to work with here at Spacca Napoli. My friend Roberto Caporuscio (of the Associazione Pizzaiuoli Napoletana) and I visited with John Nitti of Isola Imports in Chicago to review some of the wonderful cheeses that he has to offer, and to consider how they may be introduced into our repertoire of pizze.

This has been wonderful research! Trying new combinations with my staff has been a lot of fun, as I think it has been for some of you who have come in to dine these past couple of weeks. These new pizze, named after the cheeses, have been long celebrated at home in Italy, both north and south.

Stracchino is a favorite in Recco, on the Ligurian coast east of Genoa. Stracchino is a soft and creamy, mild and delicate cheese. The name comes from the word “stracca,” meaning tired. It is said that the milk from the cows producing this particular cheese is richer in fats and more acidic because of their seasonal movement up and down the Alps. The locals in Recco make a focaccia ripieno (stuffed) with just stracchino while we add porcini mushrooms and a touch of basil.

Ubriaco means drunk in Italian. This cheese is made from cow’s milk, which is soaked in wine and covered with crushed grape skins. Musty, tart, and nutty in flavor, ubriaco originates from ancient times in the Friuli Venezia Giulia region of Italy when olive oil was scarce and expensive. Grape pomace and wine was plentiful after the harvest and was substituted to preserve the cheese. We use this one with prosciutto crudo.

Crucolo is from the Trentino-Alto Adige region of Italy and balances sweet, buttery, creamy, salty, and sharp nuances all so well. Coppa dolce, sundried and cherry tomatoes go with this one. We will soon begin to play with pecorino crotonese and its dance with soprasata picante.

We have been involved with several charity events and have continued to commit our support to certain local not-for-profit community organizations. Calcio Chicago and their support of Big Brothers and Sisters of Metropolitan Chicago, the Cook Italy Foundation and its support of the Mercy Home for Boys and Girls, and the Inspiration Corporation and its support of the homeless are favorites of mine.

As the holidays approach, we are also collecting gently used coats, hats and other cold weather items here at the restaurant for a neighborhood church. Please go through your closets and drawers and see if there is something you have that could benefit some one else. May all of you have wonderful holidays.

Jonathan

Information in this letter about the various cheeses is taken from the following websites:

Stracchino – www.appetizerstogo.com

Ubriaco – www.forkandbottle.com

Crucolo – maitre-fromager.livejournal.com

www.recipetips.com

In late September, Roberto Caporuscio of the Associazione Pizzaiuoli Napoletani, returned to work with us. I am only sorry that he is not with us every day! Roberto is such a great teacher and inspiration. Not only did we continue to work with how we extend the dough and engage the oven, Roberto introduced several new antipasti (assagi) to our repertoire that we will be offering on our menu as specials, such as carciofi e patate, carote al parmigiano, mozzarella in carrozza, melanzane involtini, polpette di finocchietti, angioletti to name just a few. We also played with the form of the pizza, such as quattro catone or four corners (making pies with four mini calzone); naso a naso or nose to nose (one calzone facing another); cornicione ripeino or stuffed borders; volcano (one on top of the other), and pizza fritta or fried pizza.

Roberto and I had some time to play as well. Zucchero, the popular and great Italian blues artist was in the US for a brief tour. We were given the opportunity to cook for him and his ensemble on the dates he performed in Chicago. If you aren’t familiar with Zucchero, check out his music and his history. He has played with many, many great artists from the world over. It truly was a lot of fun to be part of these events.

I followed Zucchero to New York where he performed on his birthday at Carnegie Hall. During this trip I was able to take some time with Lou DiPalo, whose great grandfather began the family’s Latteria (cheese and ricotta shop) in 1910 in lower Manhattan’s “Little Italy”. Lou is a wonderful guy, very willing to share his great knowledge of cheese, Italian meats and other Italian specialty products. There’s nothing like fresh mozzarella! Casa della Mozzarella on Arthur Avenue in the Bronx is another great place to visit.

As we experience the changing of the seasons, the pizze we offer evolve to complement those changes. You will see a greater use of pancetta, porcini, guancialle, potato and egg, and the hand-dipped ricotta more widely used. A new favorite is the “L’Antonio,” consisting of bufala mozzarella, cherry tomatoes, speck (a dry-cured smoked ham from Alto Adige) and our creamy ricotta. This pie is named in honor of Antonio Starita, one of the great pizzaiuoli of Naples. A third generation pizza maker, you can find him in the neighborhood called Materdei. Pizzeria Starita dates back to 1901. The year of Italy’s Giubileo, Antonio had the good fortune to present Pope John Paul with his “Pizza Del Papa.” Crema di zucca, fiorilli, zucchini, pepperoni (peppers) and provola were the ingredients.

Our soups also change with the seasons. Fagioli e scarola, minestra with prosciutto and soppressata, and one with mussels and clams are now back in rotation. Soups are soothing, the classic comfort food, and something we are all in need of as we face greater challenges in our daily lives.

One of our greatest pleasures at Spacca Napoli is hearing from someone that this is where they want to be, that we are able to provide a sense of belonging and community, as the following little story illustrates. Recently one of our regular diners came in to eat. I spoke with her at the end of her meal and realized that she had called earlier to see how busy we were. She then told me that she had originally planned to stay home that night, but decided that she wanted some company, and that she wanted to be with us. Not only do we aspire to offer good food and drink, it is our intent to make our place feel like it is yours as well. I’ll close with an autumnal welcome to all of our customers, new and continuing. Let us know how you like our new offerings. I am thankful for your continued support, kindness and feedback.

After almost two weeks of pause, we are about to refire the oven. I am excited to get back in the dough room, to begin thinking once again of our pizze, antipasti, wine and sweets. I am excited to have the staff return, to see many of you who have come in on a regular basis and to make new acquaintances as well. It has truly been a pleasure to see our community grow.

I find taking a break helpful. The opportunity to rest and reflect allows me a moment to focus more clearly on what we are trying to do with Spacca Napoli. None of this would have happened without my and my family having had experienced the good life of the Mediterranean. I have tried to share some of those qualities that seem to make that life special and enjoyable: good food and wine, a slower pace, a celebration of both young and old. I have tried my best to select worthy cheeses, oils and vinegars, to put forth fresh ingredients that my aunt Joyce Goldstein, a continuing inspiration, (see www.JoyceGoldstein.com) would describe as “simple and unpretentious.”

Pizza is a wonderful thing. It is simple to prepare. With just a few ingredients, you can have something dance in your mouth, even make you cry. It can be eaten at the table

or on the street, by yourself or with a large group. Watching the hands of those who extend the dough and work the oven is a thing of beauty. There is art in those motions.

I am appreciative of my pizzaiuoli (pizza makers) and the others who help me put food on the table. Every day I feel want to start at the beginning. I am always asking about the dough; how it feels, performs, tastes. There are many styles, all are good.

DE GUSTIBUS NON DISPUTANDUIUM EST. TASTE IS NOT TO BE DISPUTED. Over the past two years, several artisanal pizzerias have opened, I am proud to be one of them.

It is my wish to learn more of this wonderful way of being.. In our first week open this fall Roberto Caporuscio of the Associazioni Pizzaiuoli Napoletani will be in residence. I look forward to his guidance, his gentle voice and soft touch. I want Roberto to look at our hands, how we touch the dough, how we add ingredients that give life to the pies we make. There is constant discussion about the nuances, of taste, texture, the feel of the dough, its resilience, its air… For me, its all about passion; to share something good, to enjoy all those who come in. I have a lot to learn, I have only just begun. During the latter half of October I will travel once again to the Gargano in Puglia, Napoli and the Cilento further south in Campania. It is always my desire to taste something new, to deepen my understanding of what I have already experienced. Thank you all for your support and kindness. My apologies to those for whom I have not done enough.

Sincerely,

Jonathan

With warm weather here and joyfully opening up our outdoor seating we want to thank everyone for coming out as the summer season gets underway. We hope you are loving the sunny afternoons lengthening more slowly into evening and the big night skies which make it perfect for meeting friends and hanging out–Italian style!

Summer seems to affect us all–Many of our clients are families who bring their kids who can hang out and play, free of bulky layers; and there just seems to be more relaxation in the air. In Italy life happens on the sidewalks as much as anywhere else; and at Spacca Napoli we are blessed with a quiet corner and lots of space to spread out. We hope being outside when weather permits makes sometimes having a wait be more playfully enjoyed. We do strive to make space possible for everyone to enjoy our offerings, and hope the increased summer seating helps us do so. We encourage you to enjoy the wait when there is one; maybe meet someone new outside as you savor the summer days!

Summer often highlights festive ceremonial events, and we have been thrilled to host several graduation parties, from fifth graders to high school to university.

Some of our clients have lately been calling and asking for special pizzas, and we will gladly take your favorite into consideration when planning each week’s menu, accomodating whenever we can. It make take a couple days, but we would love to hear requests from you and will let you know when they will be on the menu. Look for some new seasonal fare in our appetizer specials such as polpi alla luciana, a signature dish from Naples.

Check out these wonderful new cookbook releases also focusing on Mediterranean fare; Tony & Cathy Mantuano of Spiaggia Restaurant have co-written Wine Bar Food: Mediterranean Flavors to Crave with Wines to Match; prolific author Joyce Goldstein has just released Mediterranean Fresh: A Compendium of One-Plate Salad Meals and Mix and Match Dressings (full disclosure: Goldstein is my aunt) These chefs inspire us all to live, shop and cook creatively!

Reminder that we are now open on Tuesdays for dinner in addition to our established hours.

Grazie,

Jonathan Goldsmith

We are now members of APN (Associazione Pizzaiuoli Napoletani). Spacca Napoli will be honored as the first in the US to receive membership in this prestigious and select group at the Campionato Internazionale, an international pizza competition held in Naples each May.

Along with this honor, Accademia Barilla has included us in a May tour of the Parma region to learn more about important local food purveyors and their traditions. The focus will be on producers of cheese, meats, balsamic vinegar and wine. In Naples I will again visit with di Mateo, da Michele and Don Antonio of Starita as well as ‘walk the streets’ in search of more ideas to bring back to Chicago.

Our participation with the Provincial Councils of Avellino, Caserta and Napoli as part of the Global Food and Style Show yielded great tastings for our customers! Each night we sampled distinct recipes from the region of Campania such as Pasta e Fagioli con Le Cozze, Fusilli alla Napoletana and Paccheri al Ragu. And we are thankful to have participated with First Slice in a benefit held at Architectural Artifacts. The event helped raise funds to purchase a van that will better help to serve people in need.

As the spring season thaws us, Spacca Napoli continues to introduce special appetizers and pizzas: Bresaola con rucola, and Pepperoni e patate are excellent starters. New pizzas you will love are UBO: fior di latte, bufala, prosciutto crudo and cotto and Alla Dorsena: panna cucina, pomodorini, salmone e asparagi!

Hope to see you soon!

Grazie,

Jonathan Goldsmith

Spring at Spacca Napoli brings with it new lighter fare such as a minestra di zucchini and Maccu di San Giuseppe. Arthur Schwartz, The Food Maven, describes the latter soup as combining “two foods that are preserved for winter — dried beans and dried chestnuts — with the greens that are just emerging from the cold winter earth.” We have introduced a pizza made with a varietal of mozzarella called burrata, a creamy, light and spectacularly flavorful cheese renowned for its freshness and soft texture. Red pepper, onion and zucchini trifoliate along with porcini and a touch of bufala mozzarella make this a white pizza dream!

We look forward to the re-opening of the outdoor café as the weather permits. This coming June, Spacca Napoli will extend its hours to include Tuesday evenings so we can celebrate more of the good summer weather and longer hours of daylight we have all been waiting for.

We are very excited about our upcoming involvement with the Provincial Councils of Avellino, Caserta and Napoli. We have been asked to team up with them to promote the food of Campania and the Mediterranean Diet as “something unique and upscale that can be interpreted in modern ways as well as traditional.” The week prior to the Global Food and Style Expo in Chicago which is April 27-29, 2008, Spacca Napoli will be offering a tasting of Pasta e Fagioli con Le Cozze, Fusilli alla Napoletana and Paccheri al Ragu.

In closing we bid a fond farewell to Adrian Landin, one of our wait staff who has been with the pizzeria since the early days, as he ventures on to Central and South America. We wish him good luck in his journeys and will miss his energy!

Grazie,

Jonathan Goldsmith

I would like to thank all of our customers and friends for making 2007 a wonderful year. As our 2nd anniversary approaches on February 14 and we begin our third year there is so much to celebrate and look forward to. We are grateful for being embraced by the local and larger food community, as we strive to continue to bring you the best from the true food culture of Italy. We cherish the relationships that have formed with all of our customers and want to express how much these are valued!

Our hope is that Spacca Napoli continues to evolve into what my aunt and chef Joyce Goldstein (of Square One Restaurant and Mediterranean Kitchen fame) has written of as the need in our lives for a ‘third place’ — along with home and work — a place where friends can meet, dine, talk and enjoy life and feel in relationship to others, neighborhood, and a kind of authenticity.

In 2008 look for us to introduce more pizzas and some new appetizers…. We are planning some special food treats for our anniversary, so please stop in and help us celebrate! The entire week of February 14th we will celebrate and invite you to join us!

Auguri,

Jonathan Goldsmith